Active ingredients in skincare

Wondering what the difference is between AHA’s and BHA’s and what the heck Retinol is? You’re not the only one.

Skincare ingredients can be overwhelming and confusing. All we really want to know is which ingredients should we look for to reach our skin goals…right!?

It is important to start with a skincare routine full of powerful ingredients (aka active ingredients) which target and fight common skin concerns.

What are active ingredients?

Simply put, an active ingredient is something that is proven to address a specific skin concern and therefore have a beneficial effect on the skin which is backed by scientific data. For example, Vitamin A has been proven to have a rejuvenating effect on fine lines and wrinkles. There is a wide range of active ingredients for specific skin concerns ranging from acne to hyperpigmentation and they are your best bet for visible results.

Understanding actives can come in handy. We like to think of them as the heavy lifters of skincare. However, not all actives are equal. Some skincare brands, claim actives when they are barely there or combinations that may not count for much. Here, you can discover top actives, what they do and whether you should use it.

What Are Some Popular Active Ingredients in Skincare?

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) >

• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) >

• Hyaluronic Acid >

• Vitamin C >

• Niacinamide / Vitamin B3 >

• Retinol / Vitamin A >

• Peptides >

• Ceramides >

• V8 Peptide Complex >

• Snap-8 >

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

These water-soluble acids are derived from organic sugars, with glycolic acid (from sugar cane) and lactic acid (from milk). They are gentle exfoliants that work primarily to remove dead skin cells, by dissolving the bonds between skin cells, resulting in a smoother more hydrated skin surface and a reduction in the visible signs of sun damage and age. They also promote healthy collagen synthesis and regulate pigment production.

Product Type –

Being exfoliating agents, for best results try an AHA based product. We recommend trying Dp Dermaceuticals Micro Derm Exfoliant or the AHA Milk and Gel Cleanser from Ginger&ME.

Concentration and Frequency –

Look for products with pH levels of 3.5 to 4 and ensure that the concentration of AHAs is between 5 to 10%, especially if it’s your first time using this ingredient.

When to use –

Irritation can occur, particularly in those with sensitive skin, so begin with a low concentration. AHAs also increase photosensitivity, so make sure to wear a sunscreen daily and avoid using on the same day as Vitamin A and Vitamin C when introducing until skin is used to active. Do not overuse, once every other day is plenty, unless you are on a programme with a Skin Therapist.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Also known as salicylic acid, BHAs work as mild exfoliants and have similar effects to AHAs, but with the significant advantage of providing anti-inflammatory properties. Because they are oil-soluble, they can penetrate deeper into the pores of sebum and dirt to unclog without manual exfoliation. As well as treating existing blemishes, they can aid in prevention of future breakouts by neutralising bacteria within the pores before spots develop. BHA’s are used as a key active to fight acne, however they have many benefits in skincare including improvements in skin thickness, barrier function and collagen production.

Product Type –

BHAs can be found in everything from cleansers to masks. We recommend trying the O Cosmedics Corrective Cleanser and Peel or Dp Dermaceuticals CLR Lotion.

Concentration and Frequency –

pH levels of 1-2 per cent concentration are usually gentle enough for at-home use depending on what your skin can handle.

When to use –

BHAs work well layered onto the skin before a serum or a hydrator or in a cleanser with a good percentage of salicylic acid. Make sure to give time between layering each product. Those new to using BHA should start by only applying every other day and note skin's response before moving on to more frequent application.

Hyaluronic Acid

These water-soluble acids are derived from organic sugars, with glycolic acid (from sugar cane) and lactic acid (from milk). They are gentle exfoliants that work primarily to remove dead skin cells, by dissolving the bonds between skin cells, resulting in a smoother more hydrated skin surface and a reduction in the visible signs of sun damage and age. They also promote healthy collagen synthesis and regulate pigment production.

Product Type –

Usually found in serums and also hydrators and masks. We recommend trying Dp Dermaceuticals Hyla Active or O Biotics 3D Hyaluronic Serum by O Cosmedics.

Concentration and Frequency –

While most hyaluronic acid products are suitable for all skin types, some are formulated with specific concerns in mind. When it comes to applying hyaluronic acid, it’s best to use high concentrations but in smaller doses, so anywhere between one to two per cent or higher when advised by a Skin Therapist.

When to use –

Can be used every day, even twice a day as part of a morning and evening routine. Apply after cleansing and before the application of a hydrator.

Vitamin C

One of the most powerful ingredients in skincare, Vitamin C comes in many forms, ascorbic acid being the most popular. This potent antioxidant protects the skin from environmental impurities, fades dark spots to brighten skin and triggers the skin to regenerate itself. A key active in the production of collagen and potent antioxidant.

Product Type –

It can come in many forms, including powder, crystal, and liquid. We recommend trying an active serum like the Ginger&ME Vitamin Infusion Booster, the Dp Dermaceuticals Antioxidant Cocktail or the O Cosmedics Vitamin C Hemp Seed Oil.

Concentration and Frequency –

Look for a concentration level between 10 and 20 per cent. Going over 20 per cent could lead to irritation. If you have sensitive or oily skin be mindful of which Vitamin C product you choose.

When to use –

Use daily (or every other day if using AHAs/BHAs) as part of a morning routine for protection from environmental aggressors or in the evening when Vitamin C is at its most depleted. Let absorb fully after cleansing.

Niacinamide / Vitamin B3

Also known as Vitamin B3, this ingredient is a potent skin-brightening agent that over time helps to strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce pore size, calm acne, fade pigmentation, minimise redness, prevent dehydration and promote a radiant glow. It provides minimal irritation and acts as an antioxidant by limiting free radical damage. As a “cell-communicating” ingredient, niacinamide talks to different kinds of skin cells and prompts them to make newer, fresher and healthier cells that ultimately act younger.

Product Type –

Best results apply topically in the form of a hydrator or serum, we recommend O Biotics B3 Plus Serum by O Cosmedics which contains 12% Niacinamide or CLR Lotion by Dp Dermaceuticals.

Concentration and Frequency –

It can be found in a range of concentrations, so it is important to talk to a Skin Therapist to work out the best percentage for your skin. An extremely high concentration can lead to irritation while too low may have little effect. Ideally products with a minimum of 5% for results.

When to use –

Apply before your hydrator so it can successfully penetrate the skin morning and/or evening. Niacinamide can be used 1-2 times per day and interacts well with the other potent ingredients that you are using in your skincare routine like peptides, hyaluronic acid, retinol, BHA, vitamin C, AHAs and other

Retinol / Vitamin A

Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, and a very powerful anti-ageing ingredient. Skin cells are better an interacting with it than many other ingredients. Retinol stimulates collagen in the skin, helping to restore, firm, smooth and repair. It speeds up the normal exfoliation process leading to refined skin and a more even-toned complexion. It also stimulates the internal hyaluronic acid in the skin, keeping skin moisturised, hydrated and plump.

Product Type –

Retinol is present in different product types for different purposes and is often formulated with other skincare heavyweights, like niacinamide. We recommend the O Cosmedics Retioic Oil if you are starting out or work up to their Retinol Concentrate or the Dp Dermaceuticals Retinal Active.

Concentration and Frequency –

With retinol, the best strength is 0.25 percent or 1 percent. Anything higher than 1% requires a doctors prescription.

When to use –

Patch test first and introduce retinol slowly, once or twice a week, to avoid irritation. Retinol is best applied after cleansing and before a restorative night hydrator. Always wear SPF and not be used during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids which communicate with surrounding cells to boost skin-restoring processes. They are the building blocks of protein (think collagen, elastin) that are crucial to the appearance of skin. Peptides work to diminish inflammation, fine lines and wrinkles.

Product Type –

Peptides can be included in serums, hydrators or masks. It is recommended to opt for a peptide product that can be left on the skin, like a cream or serum. We recommend the O Cosmedics B3 Plus Serum.

Concentration and Frequency –

The frequency of usage will depend on the product or treatment that best suits you and your skin type. Generally, however, polypeptides are safe to use twice daily.

When to use –

If you’re using a peptide serum, apply it post-cleanse and before moisturising, and if you’re getting your peptide fix via a hydrator ensure that the serum before it (if you’re using one), doesn’t contain a potentially aggravating active ingredient if your skin is reactive.

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids that aid in water retention and barrier function. Ceramides keep the skin barrier strong, this is essential in keeping your skin hydrated, helping it to retain moisture and assist the protective skin barrier to function as healthy as can be, preventing irritants entering the skin.

Product Type –

Ceremide’s are at their best in serums, concentrates and creams which can take their time to work on the skin - as opposed to wash-away products. We recommend trying the O Cosmedics Repair Serum or Recovery Cream.

Concentration and Frequency –

It’s safe for frequent use and is recommended to be applied twice daily.

When to use –

PAs a hydrator, ceramides may work best when applied immediately following a shower to lock in extra moisture and applying your ceramides twice daily, but during which step in your routine depends on your product of choice. Use your cleansers first, followed by toners and serums, and save the hydrator for the final step at night or right before your SPF if it’s during the day.

V8 Peptide Complex

O Cosmedics has the worldwide exclusive rights to the V8 Peptide Complex and no other company worldwide can use it! The complex is highly regarded among skincare professionals for forging the way in proven anti-ageing results. Found in all O products (excluding the pure C + BHA powder) V8 Peptide Complex works behind the scenes on the essential cell structure to age proof your skin and accelerate healing and rejuvenation, giving you ultimate skin health and skin youth. A potent blend of antioxidants and pepides designed to fight the five causes of ageing: Collagen Breakdown, Photo Defence (repeated exposure to the sun), Glycation (excess sugar), Oxidation and Inflammation.

Product Type –

Present in most O Cosmedics products including serums, hydrators, peels and masks. See O Cosmedics products for this ingredient.

Concentration and Frequency –

The frequency of usage will depend on the product or treatment that best suits you and your skin type. Generally, however, polypeptides are safe to use twice daily.

When to use –

Safe to apply twice daily or more.

Snap-8

Snap-8 is an anti-wrinkle peptide that relaxes the look of expression lines. It consists of 8 amino acids or octapeptide that diminishes the look of wrinkles and expression lines by blocking receptors that cause muscle contractions. The peptide will give products a boost for visibly younger looking skin.

Product Type –

Present in most O Cosmedics products including serums, hydrators, peels and masks. See O Cosmedics products for this ingredient.

Concentration and Frequency –

The frequency of usage will depend on the product or treatment that best suits you and your skin type. Generally, however, Snap-8 is safe to use twice daily. Taking into consideration the concentration of peptide in SNAP-8 Solution, it is recommended that 3 to 10% of the solution is present in the final formulation in order to obtain significant anti- wrinkle activity.

When to use –

Present in many O Cosmedics products, safe to apply twice daily.

Download our guide on how to use actives in your skincare routine

Book your personalised skin consult with us

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Active ingredients in skincare

Wondering what the difference is between AHA’s and BHA’s and what the heck Retinol is? You’re not the only one.

What are active ingredients?

What Are Some Popular Active Ingredients in Skincare?

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Product Type –

Being exfoliating agents, for best results try an AHA based product. We recommend trying Dp Dermaceuticals Micro Derm Exfoliant or the AHA Milk and Gel Cleanser from Ginger&ME.

Concentration and Frequency –

Look for products with pH levels of 3.5 to 4 and ensure that the concentration of AHAs is between 5 to 10%, especially if it’s your first time using this ingredient.

When to use –

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Product Type –

BHAs can be found in everything from cleansers to masks. We recommend trying the O Cosmedics Corrective Cleanser and Peel or Dp Dermaceuticals CLR Lotion.

Concentration and Frequency –

pH levels of 1-2 per cent concentration are usually gentle enough for at-home use depending on what your skin can handle.

When to use –

Hyaluronic Acid

Product Type –

Usually found in serums and also hydrators and masks. We recommend trying Dp Dermaceuticals Hyla Active or O Biotics 3D Hyaluronic Serum by O Cosmedics.

Concentration and Frequency –

When to use –

Can be used every day, even twice a day as part of a morning and evening routine. Apply after cleansing and before the application of a hydrator.

Vitamin C

Product Type –

It can come in many forms, including powder, crystal, and liquid. We recommend trying an active serum like the Ginger&ME Vitamin Infusion Booster, the Dp Dermaceuticals Antioxidant Cocktail or the O Cosmedics Vitamin C Hemp Seed Oil.

Concentration and Frequency –

Look for a concentration level between 10 and 20 per cent. Going over 20 per cent could lead to irritation. If you have sensitive or oily skin be mindful of which Vitamin C product you choose.

When to use –

Use daily (or every other day if using AHAs/BHAs) as part of a morning routine for protection from environmental aggressors or in the evening when Vitamin C is at its most depleted. Let absorb fully after cleansing.

Niacinamide / Vitamin B3

Product Type –

Best results apply topically in the form of a hydrator or serum, we recommend O Biotics B3 Plus Serum by O Cosmedics which contains 12% Niacinamide or CLR Lotion by Dp Dermaceuticals.

Concentration and Frequency –

It can be found in a range of concentrations, so it is important to talk to a Skin Therapist to work out the best percentage for your skin. An extremely high concentration can lead to irritation while too low may have little effect. Ideally products with a minimum of 5% for results.

When to use –

Retinol / Vitamin A

Product Type –

Retinol is present in different product types for different purposes and is often formulated with other skincare heavyweights, like niacinamide. We recommend the O Cosmedics Retioic Oil if you are starting out or work up to their Retinol Concentrate or the Dp Dermaceuticals Retinal Active.

Concentration and Frequency –

With retinol, the best strength is 0.25 percent or 1 percent. Anything higher than 1% requires a doctors prescription.

When to use –

Patch test first and introduce retinol slowly, once or twice a week, to avoid irritation. Retinol is best applied after cleansing and before a restorative night hydrator. Always wear SPF and not be used during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids which communicate with surrounding cells to boost skin-restoring processes. They are the building blocks of protein (think collagen, elastin) that are crucial to the appearance of skin. Peptides work to diminish inflammation, fine lines and wrinkles.

Product Type –

Peptides can be included in serums, hydrators or masks. It is recommended to opt for a peptide product that can be left on the skin, like a cream or serum. We recommend the O Cosmedics B3 Plus Serum.

Concentration and Frequency –

The frequency of usage will depend on the product or treatment that best suits you and your skin type. Generally, however, polypeptides are safe to use twice daily.

When to use –

If you’re using a peptide serum, apply it post-cleanse and before moisturising, and if you’re getting your peptide fix via a hydrator ensure that the serum before it (if you’re using one), doesn’t contain a potentially aggravating active ingredient if your skin is reactive.

Ceramides

Product Type –

Ceremide’s are at their best in serums, concentrates and creams which can take their time to work on the skin - as opposed to wash-away products. We recommend trying the O Cosmedics Repair Serum or Recovery Cream.

Concentration and Frequency –

It’s safe for frequent use and is recommended to be applied twice daily.

When to use –

V8 Peptide Complex

Product Type –

Present in most O Cosmedics products including serums, hydrators, peels and masks. See O Cosmedics products for this ingredient.

Concentration and Frequency –

The frequency of usage will depend on the product or treatment that best suits you and your skin type. Generally, however, polypeptides are safe to use twice daily.

When to use –

Safe to apply twice daily or more.

Snap-8

Product Type –

Present in most O Cosmedics products including serums, hydrators, peels and masks. See O Cosmedics products for this ingredient.

Concentration and Frequency –

When to use –

Present in many O Cosmedics products, safe to apply twice daily.

Download our guide on how to use actives in your skincare routine

Book your personalised skin consult with us

Kind Words